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We love the sleek, elegant ambiance of white cloth capped with white butcher paper. Plus, if you buy your grapes from AZ Wine, there's no corkage fee). It's BYOB, always a nice touch to lower the dinner tab, but it's connected to the terrific AZ Wine Co., meaning it's almost as good as having a personal sommelier (just let the proprietors know what you're thinking of eating for dinner, and they'll help you choose the perfect wine. Yet there's something just a bit extra special about Atlas Bistro, a tiny cafe with a big-city mood. What happened? Did serious chefs finally wake up and realize how many Valley folks have lots of cash to spend on their evenings out (not us, but we've heard of such people)? For once, it was hard to choose the best new restaurant. The past 12 months have seen the introduction of not just one incredible destination, but several. And while Indian food has a reputation for causing sweaty brows and gasping breath, lamb korma is a jewel of delicate meat blended with tangy yogurt and nuts. Lamb jalfraizee is luscious, a tender, meaty toss of tomatoes, onion and green pepper in a vinegary, ginger-imbued gravy served on a sizzling platter. We're stunned by the kitchen's take on classics like mulligatawny, a from-scratch curry-kissed soup floating with chicken, lentils and fresh herbs. Playing the riff is garam masala, an intense, aromatic mixture that has no set recipe but often includes cinnamon, cloves, black pepper and black cardamom. Spices come in rainbow reflections, applied lavishly in tiers of turmeric, ginger, garlic, fennel, coriander, cumin, chili, mint and more. Tastes are layered and complex, often including ghee (clarified butter) for a creamy finish that's incomparably rich. Here, we find how sublime the food can be, involving an elaborate labyrinth of color, texture and flavor. For proof, all we have to do is stop in at Maharaja Palace, home to the Valley's most exciting display of what makes Indian so interesting. If a food has thrived for some 5,000 years like Indian cuisine has, we've got to believe there's something pretty special about it.